So it started with a cryptic clue for my impending 40th birthday. I got this text from Samantha
In the spirit of throwing myself into the culture I went to Aldi (that well known Danish supermarket!) and bought some crazy shit I don’t understand.
Krebsgaarden is a concept restaurant where the food is inspired by the current exhibition at the Galleri Krebsen. The food was incredible. Actually incredible, which may explain why it’s number 2 on trip advisor. Can I tell you what I had? Can I bollocks, because I also had the wine taster menu again. To be fair, it was my birthday this time. You’re allowed to be catatonic on your 40th birthday, it takes the edge off the depression. Funnily enough, I wasn’t that taken with the artwork on display in the restaurant, maybe the gallery is better?
I’ll tell you what else Danish people like to do. They luuuuurve to put the plate of food down in front of you and then tell you all about the food you are about to eat, and how it was made, and where it has come from, and who grew it, and what their cousin does for a living and why that’s relevant and…OH MY GOD JUST LET ME EAT THE FOOD ALREADY!! I’m not knocking it really, it’s nice that they’re passionate, but for me this is nearly as bad a sharing.
Lots of nice little shops too selling upcycled and designer goods alike. Samanatha was particularly smitten with this flower shop. It’s the kind of look she’s going for with the house.
But you gotta watch the exchange rate, it’s easy to get caught out if you’re a bit stupid like me. Managed to buy this delightful hand carved wooden bowl/ objet d’art for just a fiver.
Except that it wasn’t a fiver…It was fifty quid! Managed to get the exchange rate wrong by a factor of ten- D’oh! If you listen really hard you can still hear them laughing in the shop. Obviously I couldn’t take it back and explain my error because I’m British and as such I would rather give away all of my money and belongings and live out my days as a hermit in the Outer Hebrides, rearing sheep and living off nettles than engage in that conversation.
Being as venerable as it is there are plenty of old buildings and history to immerse yourself in in Copenhagen if being a culture vulture is your thing. I was particularly taken with the architecture, both old and new.
…but being a modern city there are still shit bits…
…and dudes who skip leg day at the gym…
The Carlsberg museum is an absolute must-see and I would definitely put aside a good chunk of the day for this if you intend visiting. It was a really fascinating museum, but with added beer. I just fail to see how this cannot be a winner.
Carlsberg beer in Denmark is infinitely more delicious and quite a bit stronger than the UK version, so don’t be put off by that tepid stuff that somebody brought to your last barbeque because they didn’t actually like you enough to buy proper lager. The company have grand plans to develop the area around the museum into a chic, modern, urban setting, it will be interesting to see how they blend the architectural styles.
I don’t know about you but I find that getting about the city when sightseeing can be a bit tedious unless you’re staring imminent death in the face. So with this in mind, we decided to hire a city bike “Bicyklen”. This works by handing over your bank account details at one of the bike hubs to a third party you’ve never heard of and then taking your life precariously in your hands as you flail wildly about in Copenhagen’s heavily-trafficked streets with a flagrant and, at times, suicidal disregard for the rules of the road. Remarkably, we weren’t killed and still had money left in our bank accounts when we last checked so it turned out to be something of a success. I think it cost about £2.50 for one terrifying hour.
A couple of great bars that deserve a mention are Lidkoeb and Ruby. Lidkoeb has a warm, friendly feel about it with table service and a little area outdoors if it is too busy at the bar. The cocktails are pricey but really good. I loved this place.
Ruby is more well known, and whilst it was pretty fucking cool, there was a bit more of an air of pretension to it. We had to queue to get in. On a weeknight!
Again the cocktails were fantastic but not cheap. Still worth a visit.
All in all I would highly recommend Denmark. It’s vibrant and fun, cultured and cool, seedy and saucy, but sexy and sophisticated. The people are warm and friendly, getting about is easy and the food and drink are sublime. Just remember to learn how to start crapping money before you go.
…oh, and maybe take a calculator.